Bulgogi

Ingredients

• 1⅓ lbBeefflank steak or sirloin, sliced very thinly against the grain
• 1⅓ lbporkalternative to beef: pork collar or chops (optional)
• 1⅓ lbchickenalternative to beef: boneless thigh or breast (optional)
• 4 tbspSoy saucebase of the marinade
• 2 tbspBrown sugarfor caramelization
• 1 tbsphoneyextra sweetness and gloss
• 2 tbspRice wineor mirin
• 4 clovesGarlicfinely minced
• 1 tspGingerfinely grated
• 1 tbspSesame oilfor the marinade
• 1 tbspSesame seedstoasted, in the marinade and for sprinkling
• ½ tspBlack pepperground
• 2Scallionscut into pieces, cooked along or as garnish
• 5¼ ozOnionjulienned, partly also grated into the marinade
• 3½ ozApplegrated, tenderizes the meat; Korean pear works too
• 1Carrotcut into matchsticks or slices
• 2 tbspgochujangfor the spicy version (optional)
• 2 tbspgochugaruKorean chilli flakes, for extra heat (optional)
• 1 tbsplemon juiceacidity in the marinade, cider vinegar works too (optional)
• 1 tbspvegetable oilneutral, for searing
• ricesteamed, to serve
• lettucefresh leaves for wrapping, plus perilla and cucumber (optional)

Method

1. Prepare the meatTrim the beef, cut away any coarse fat, and use a sharp knife to slice it very thinly against the grain; if you're going with pork or chicken instead, cut that into bite-sized pieces. You only need one kind of meat.
2. Mix the marinadeFor the marinade, stir together the soy sauce, brown sugar, honey, rice wine, minced garlic, grated ginger, sesame oil, toasted sesame seeds and black pepper until the sugar has completely dissolved.
3. Grate in apple and onionFinely grate the apple and part of the onion into the marinade — the fruit is what tenderizes the meat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice if you like.
4. Add meat and vegetablesAdd the meat you've chosen to the marinade along with the remaining onion cut into julienne, the carrot and most of the scallions, keeping a few pieces back for garnish, then massage everything together lightly with your hands.
5. Let it marinateLet it marinate for at least 30 to 60 minutes, either chilled or at room temperature.
6. Heat the pan and add meatGet a skillet or grill pan very hot, add the vegetable oil and lay the meat in flat, working in batches — don't crowd the pan or the meat will steam in its own juices.
7. Sear until caramelizedCook for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until the surface caramelizes; lower the heat a little if needed so the marinade doesn't burn.
8. Garnish and serve with riceFinish with the reserved scallions and a scattering of sesame seeds and serve piping hot with steamed rice.

Tips and variations

Use boneless chicken thigh or breast in small pieces with a 30-minute marinade and you've got Dak Bulgogi. A spicy pork version stirs gochujang and gochugaru into the marinade and tosses the pork in a hot wok instead of laying it flat in a pan. Thick pork chops can marinate overnight, at least twelve hours, then go over high heat on the grill, finish over indirect heat and rest briefly. A large piece of beef can be seared first, then braised with the vegetables and sauce in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours on high or 5–6 hours on low, and sliced only afterward. Pineapple juice can stand in for the grated apple or pear. Another version swaps the fruit for a mashed ripe banana, which sweetens and tenderizes the meat, and also brings Korean soup soy sauce (gukganjang) into the marinade. In a hurry, flatten the meat with the back of your knife and give it just 10 minutes in the marinade. At the table, bulgogi is lovely with fresh lettuce leaves for wrapping, plus perilla, cucumber, kimchi and a spicy dipping sauce.