Gosari Namul

Ingredients

• 1⅓ ozDried fernbrake (gosari)soak, boil until tender, remove woody stem ends, cut into 7–10 cm lengths
• 1 tbspSoy saucepreferably Korean soup soy sauce (guk-ganjang)
• 1 clovesGarlicfinely minced
• 1Scallionsthinly sliced
• 1 tbspcooking oilfor sautéing
• ¼ cupWaterfor finishing in the pan; kelp or beef broth as an alternative
• 1 tspSesame oilfor seasoning
• 1 tspSesame seedstoasted, for sprinkling
• Sugara small pinch to round off the seasoning (optional)
• Saltto taste (optional)
• Black pepperto taste (optional)
• 1 tspSweet rice flourmixed with 1 tbsp water to bind the pan juices (optional)

Method

1. Soak the dried gosari in plenty of cold water, ideally 8 to 24 hours, until the stalks have fully rehydrated.
2. Drain off the soaking water, simmer the fern in boiling water until tender, then cool it in cold water, rinse thoroughly and drain well.
3. Snap off and discard the tough, woody stem ends, then gather the soft stalks into bundles and cut them into 7 to 10 cm lengths.
4. Toss the fern with the soy sauce, minced garlic and, if you like, a small pinch of sugar, and let it sit for a few minutes to take on the seasoning.
5. Heat the neutral oil in a pan and sauté the marinated fern over medium heat for a few minutes, turning it often.
6. Pour in the water and let it cook down uncovered until the liquid has almost completely evaporated and the stalks look soft and glossy.
7. Season to taste with a little salt and black pepper, if you like, then fold in the sliced scallion, sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds and take the pan off the heat.
8. Serve the gosari namul lukewarm or at room temperature as a side dish with rice.

Tips and variations

If you'd rather skip the long soak, boil the dried fern straight away for 30 to 40 minutes and let it cool in its cooking water; conversely, after a very long soak a quick blanch is all it needs. Instead of reducing the liquid uncovered, you can steam the fern with a lid on, and a teaspoon of sweet rice flour stirred into a tablespoon of water will give the pan juices a silky body at the end. For more depth, swap the water for kombu broth — or beef broth, though that means the dish is no longer vegan. Serve it beside a bowl of rice, as a topping in bibimbap, or alongside two other namul as samsaek namul; sealed airtight, it keeps 3 to 4 days in the fridge.