Yukgaejang

Ingredients

• 1⅓ lbbeef briskettrimmed of fat; flank or shank also work; shredded along the grain after simmering
• 10½ cupsWaterfor the broth; yields roughly 1.8–2 l of soup base
• 1Onionhalved or quartered to flavour the broth, discarded afterwards
• 10½ ozKorean radishsimmered in large chunks, then discarded
• 2 bunchSpring onioncut into 10 cm lengths, thick white parts split lengthwise
• 8¾ ozmung bean sproutsbriefly blanched or added straight to the soup
• 1⅓ ozdried bracken fern (gosari)soak and simmer until tender, trim tough ends, cut into pieces
• 4¼ ozShiitake mushroomssliced or torn if fresh; soak first if dried
• 2 tbspGochugarufor colour and heat, increase for a spicier soup
• 2 tbspSesame oilto bloom the chili flakes or season the shredded meat
• 2 tbspKorean soup soy saucemain seasoning of the soup
• 3 clovesGarlicfinely minced
• 1 tspKorean soybean pastefor extra depth in the broth (optional)
• 1 tspGochujangadditional heat and savouriness (optional)
• 2Egglightly beaten, drizzled into the boiling soup at the end (optional)
• 4⅔ ozdangmyeon (sweet potato starch noodles)soak 20 minutes in warm water, add just before the end (optional)
• 1 tspSesame seedstoasted and crushed, for seasoning the meat (optional)
• Saltto taste
• Black pepperto taste

Method

1. Soak the dried gosari in plenty of water, then simmer until tender, let cool and rinse thoroughly; trim off the tough ends and cut the fern into pieces about 10 cm long.
2. Rinse the beef brisket and put it in a pot with the water, the halved onion and the Korean radish cut into large chunks. Bring to the boil and skim the foam carefully, then cover and simmer for about 1 hour, until the meat pulls apart easily.
3. Lift out the meat and discard the onion and radish. Strain the broth and skim the fat from the surface. Once the beef has cooled, shred it into strips along the grain.
4. Blanch the mung bean sprouts briefly and rinse them under cold water. Cut the spring onions into 10 cm lengths, splitting the thick white parts lengthwise, and slice or tear the mushrooms.
5. Warm the sesame oil in a pot and bloom the gochugaru (Korean chili flakes) in it for just a few seconds so it doesn't burn. Toss the beef, gosari, mushrooms, minced garlic and part of the guk ganjang (Korean soup soy sauce) with the chili oil.
6. Add the seasoned beef to the broth, stir in the remaining guk ganjang along with the doenjang and gochujang if you're using them, and boil for about 10 minutes.
7. Add the bean sprouts and spring onions and let everything simmer for another 10 to 20 minutes, then season with salt, pepper and more gochugaru if you like.
8. If you want them, add the dangmyeon (sweet potato starch noodles) that has soaked for 20 minutes in warm water, drizzle the beaten eggs into the boiling soup and turn off the heat. Serve hot with rice, and kimchi on the side.

Tips and variations

In a pressure cooker the beef cooks with the onion and radish in 30 to 40 minutes under pressure; release the pressure slowly and then carry on as you would on the stove. Instead of making chili oil in the pan, you can massage the shredded beef by hand with guk ganjang, gochugaru, sesame oil, sugar, garlic, sesame seeds and pepper, then add it to the broth together with the spring onions. Leek (Asian or European) works in place of the spring onions, sweated in the oil with the gochugaru; the gosari can be left out, and dangmyeon or eggs added or skipped as you please. For extra depth, let a piece of dried seaweed steep briefly in the strained broth and then remove it. If you're pressed for time, cook for only a few minutes after the broth and meat come together. Left unseasoned — just broth with the boiled beef — the same pot gives you the plain beef soup gogiguk.